Being a Murphy, I have the luck of the Irish going for me, and it did not disappoint throughout this wondrous 12-day experience. The itinerary included some of the iconic must-see places (Cliffs of Moher, Book of Kells) but mostly we went a bit off-the-beaten path, in search of the real locals. We met a renown harpist (and had a bit of a lesson after being fortified with freshly-baked scones around her kitchen table). We met a farmer and sheepdog trainer who shared one of his life’s highlights – meeting Jennifer Aniston when she was was on a movie set on his property. We met a distant cousin of John F. Kennedy – who welcomed us to the Kennedy Homestead. We were welcomed to dinner in a private home and enjoyed a delightful dinner and great ‘craic.’ We met a musical couple in their pink thatched-roof cottage who play the Irish pipes and other traditional instruments.
The people – the warmth – the spirit – enveloped us at every turn in the road! This was the real Ireland. Ireland unplugged.
And, another bit of magic: even the weather synched perfectly with our itinerary. We never needed our umbrellas!
Highlights:
Western Ireland, Galway
- Visited the fabulous and famous Cliffs of Moher
- Enjoyed three nights at the luxurious Glenlo Abbey, just outside Belfast
- Met a sheep farmer and his wife in their thatched-roof cottage, where we devoured freshly-baked scones served with homemade strawberry-rhubarb jam
- Took a cruise on Killary Fjord
- Enjoyed an afternoon in a pink thatched cottage with a couple who are renown for their knowledge and talent with traditional Irish music and learned about the Irish pipes (Uilleann)
- Explored the Burren and Connemara countrysides, stopping whenever we wished to take photos of rock walls, thatched cottages and gorgeous vistas (which was often!)
- Enjoyed a multi-course dinner in the Pullman Restaurant, a restored car from the original Orient Express train
- Spent a delightful Sunday afternoon at the local hurling match! (read my blog about this one!)
Southeast Ireland, Co. Kilkenny
- Passed time on the coach with a Limerick Contest
- Visited the home of a woman renown in Ireland for her Harp Orchestra – she gave us instruction … after we were suitably fortified with homemade scones and clotted cream (yum!)
- Stayed three nights at the magnificent Mount Juliet Estate
- Upon arrival at Mount Juliet, we were welcomed by a red-jacketed huntsman on his horse, and his 25 hunting hounds!
- Met a distant cousin of John F. Kennedy – who owns the family farm and is curator of the Kennedy Homestead
- Learned about the famine – and the massive migration of Irish to North America – with a private visit to the Dunbrody, a replica of one of the ships that carried thousands of Irish across the Atlantic
- Visited Kilkenny Castle, the ruins of Jerpoint Abbey, Smithwick’s Brewery and Jerpoint Glassblowing factory
- Enjoyed a delightful evening at the home of a local family
Northern Ireland, Belfast
- Toured Bushmill’s Whiskey Distillery (and, of course, tasted some samples!)
- Spent a fabulous sunny day at the Antrim Coast, exploring the Giant’s Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede Bridge, before returning home to Belfast in a blizzard!
- Took a Black Taxi Tour with a local who explained the history of The Troubles from the viewpoint of a Catholic (or was he a Protestant?)
- Visited the Titanic Museum
- Enjoyed a spectacular nine-course meal – the same menu served on the Titanic – at a local manor house, where we were welcomed with a bagpiper
- The gentlemen in our group were surprised to find their ‘outfit” for the farewell dinner, neatly laid out on the bed, as I had conspired with the wives to get all necessary sizes to suitably order kilt rentals for each of them (After a bit of grumbling, they all got into the spirit and had a great time – and they looked so handsome!)
