There’s a place that I especially love, and would love for you to join me.
Let me paint a picture of a magnificent adventure in four parts . . .
Imagine . . . traveling along a desert highway, a cool wind in your hair, deserted beaches to your left, coastal foothills to your right. Up ahead in the distance, you see a small town with a colonial vibe. What a nice surprise!
Take a seat in the lovely garden courtyard of your historic hacienda and order a Tequila Sunset. What’s that sound … a Mission bell?
Aaaahhh . . . there’s a peaceful, easy feeling to this place (oops – different song!). Originally discovered by the Jesuits in the 1700s, the little oasis flourished and prospered for nearly two centuries, thanks to its underground aquifer and lush tropical setting. In the 1950s a double-whammy of draught and WWII forced families and farmers to seek opportunity elsewhere – and the town was largely abandoned.
The good thing about a ghost town is that it doesn’t change. Its natural, historical and architectural wonders are safe from rampant development. The magic* remains.
And so it is here. The ghosts are friendly ones. The aquifer – which mysteriously dried up – is full again. Small-production farms and fishing sustain the local population. Discerning travelers enjoy the comfort of boutique hotels, farm-to-table cuisine, and delightful art galleries and shops. Colonial buildings, red-tiled roofs, and cobblestone streets have been restored. Artisans, ex-pats, and old surfers add to the laid-back, Bohemian vibe.
I love it here!
* Speaking of “magic,” this town has been awarded ‘Pueblo Mágico’ (magical village) designation because of its history, hospitality, handicrafts, traditions, festivals, food and fun.
Mother Nature has painted the sky in warm shades of gold and orange as I stand knee-deep in the gently lapping waves on this uninhabited island. I feel nothing but peace. And gratitude that the developers who envisioned a casino resort back in the 90s didn’t get their way. It’s now a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve – safe from development that would ruin it.
Behind me, eight charming “glamping” tents are outfitted with a comfy bed, rugs, chairs, lanterns, and bedside tables. At the far end of the beach, Ruben, our on-site chef is chopping and prepping for dinner. But first, happy hour!
We sit in a semi-circle to witness the magnificent sunset show. Ruben approaches with a tray of margaritas. Truly – this is the ultimate happy hour.
We were dropped off here a few hours ago, concluding a voyage that I thought would be a basic water transfer, but it turned into so much more. Within 30 minutes of leaving the marina our steely-eyed Captain pointed out a school of dolphins leaping and gliding through the azure waters without the slightest effort. A short time later, several manta rays skimmed the surface. Cormorants and pelicans dove for their dinner.
I’d read that Jacques Cousteau had proclaimed these waters the “world’s aquarium.” Now I understood why.
We approached a cluster of rock formations, streaked white with the droppings of hundreds of seabirds. Another surprise: Blue-footed Boobies! I thought that they were found only in the Galapagos Islands.
Captain dropped an anchor near another group of islands, and we wrestled to put on the wetsuits we’d chosen back at the marina. We were about to jump in the middle of a sea lion colony to snorkel and play with the babies. Hernando, our naturalist guide, demonstrated how to duck-waddle to the bow of the boat, sit at the edge and fall backwards into the water.
I’m adventurous to a point, but am not exactly a water-baby. But once in the water, it all made sense. I floated on the surface, watching swift little pups twirl and cavort through their watery playground. Curious about their visitors, they approached us with their big brown eyes and whiskers.
And now we’re here. On this island paradise. What a day it’s been! The dinner bell sounds, and we eagerly slosh through the gently lapping waves to a bounteous dinner. Later, we sit with a Kahlua nightcap, admiring the billions of stars that make up the Milky Way. And then I sleep soundly, grateful for another magical day and excited about what tomorrow will bring!
Nobody is anxious to leave this magical place. I could easily spend another 36 hours here – disconnected from the “real” world. I hiked into a canyon. I stood up on a paddleboard for the first time. I kayaked on the glassy azure waters of the bay.
But another adventure awaits!
Years ago, some friends regaled me with their experience of swimming with whale sharks. I can’t recall if it was in the Maldives or the Seychelles … all I recall is that it required that I travel to the other side of the planet. I added it to my “Someday, I’ll Do This” list.
When I learned that Whale Sharks are here, I was positively thrilled! They get the name because they’re as big as a whale and have a dorsal fin like a shark. But actually, they’re just a fish … a very, very BIG fish!
I wasn’t prepared for the moment when a massive creature approached me, swimming slowly with its huge mouth open wide as it sucked up microscopic plankton. It was one of those OMG moments, an almost other-worldly experience. He (she?) was so huge! And polka-dotted, too! Mother Nature certainly was in a whimsical mood when she decorated this fish. I was too close to get a good photo with my underwater GoPro camera, but my hubby, Scott, managed to film some of the amazing encounter.
Another “wow” for the memory books!
Hard to imagine, but there’s one more thrilling experience to this adventure.
On this day, our drive takes only four hours. But the California Gray Whales have traveled 5,000 miles from Alaska to get here. These warm, tropical waters are where they give birth . . . .
I can’t write any more, because there are not enough superlatives to adequately describe what happened over the next day and a half. Surreal. Magical. Spiritual. Lots of “oohs, aahs, and wows.”
Jill Stoliker came with me on this journey three years ago. This is what she wrote to me afterwards: “I will never forget those wonderful days and nights. It was truly a “Vision Quest” for me and I am still processing the deeper meaning of each experience. Thank you so much to making this possible.”
I hope I’ve aroused your curiosity. See the website for complete details. I’d love to share the magic with you – please join me!
Marilyn
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