September 22, 2019

I’ve just returned from a stupendous experience in Kenya. I knew it would be an extraordinary journey because, after all, I’d planned it! But I wasn’t prepared for much of what I experienced.

Months in advance of this trip, in addition to the obvious wildlife experiences, I explored various ways to incorporate a human connection, too. As a Chapter Leader for an organization called Dining for Women, which funds grassroots organizations that empower women and girls in the developing world, I recalled learning about Maasai Girls Education Fund (MGEF), which provides school scholarships and community education in the region of Kajiado, a couple hours south of Nairobi.

I scrolled through their website, reading accounts of girls who desperately need a lifeline to save them from forced early marriage and the practice of female genital mutilation (FGM). Each story was heart-wrenching, but I was particularly touched by one mother’s relentless commitment:

Abandoned by her alcoholic husband, Grace Soia’s mother toiled as a laundress to support her four children. Knowing that a decent education was the only chance for her 12-year-old daughter to have a better life, she showed up at the MGEF office at least twice a month for nearly a year. She pleaded with them to find a sponsor who would provide a scholarship for Grace who had been sent home for lack of school fees.

After reading this story, I was hooked and immediately signed on to provide a scholarship for Grace (only $100/month). Along with my hubbie, Scott, and a good friend, Gloria, I departed a few days in advance in order to meet Grace and her mother. Our travel dates coincided with those of MGEF’s Executive Director, Heather McKay, so our visit was particularly enriching and educational. On one of the days in Kajiado, we accompanied Heather and the Chief out into the countryside to see the land he had donated to MGEF. We endured a bumpy, dusty 90-minute drive to the middle of nowhere to see the plot and visit a Maasai family compound. This was definitely NOT on the tourist trail.

My photos tell the story better than I can:

Many Maasai live in primitive huts (munyetta) made of mud, sticks, and cow dung. No windows, no electricity, no running water. Cooking is done inside on a woodfire, so it’s very smoky inside.

The wealth of a Maasai man is expressed by the size of his herd of cattle, goats, and sheep. His wives are “purchased” (as in a dowry) with livestock.

The Maasai live very close to nature. Family huts (one for each wife) are encircled by a “boma” of thorny acacia branches – handy for drying laundry. Cattle and goats are herded into the boma at night to protect them from predators. (Consequently, there are a LOT of flies.)

One of my favorite photos, as wrenching as it is. (Yes – those are flies.)

Not the greatest image, but this photo is of a woman (looks very young) who had just given birth. Tradition dictates that she be sequestered inside the smoky hut for 30 days.
We contributed gifts of maize, rice, and other foodstuffs to the family, plus some candies for the kids.

A Maasai woman making (and wearing) elaborate beaded adornments and jewelry. Their creations are not only beautiful but also signify age and social status. Generally individuals of high social standing will wear more colorful and intricate jewelry. The “containers” on her lap are made of gourds from the calabash tree.

My good friend, Gloria, was gifted with this beautiful Maasai necklace.

I told Scott he could wear a bright red shuka like a Maasai, but he couldn’t have more than one wife! Notice the sandals made of old tires. They have few possessions, and nothing is wasted. (We could learn a thing or two …)

When I learned that a tribal “chief” would take us around, I envisioned a guy with a loincloth and headdress! Not so.
Felix is an elected “Chief” of the Kajiado district. He is a hard-working, educated man and a great supporter of Maasai Girls Education Fund. He donated 5 acres of his land to the organization and has referred many girls to the scholarship program. Just two weeks before, he had rescued a 9-year-old girl from a forced marriage!

This guy is Felix’ brother, who had never seen a U.S. dollar bill. He was fascinated with it, kept examining it, showing it to his friends – and, of course, I let him keep it!

A typical street scene in a rural village in Kenya.

Kids are kids, wherever you go!

School rules. My favorite: “Classwork assignment and homework must be attended to with atmost [sic] seriousness.”

All these sweet girls are scholarship recipients from the MGEF program. Initially, they were very shy, but when we did the “WOW” pose, their faces lit up and revealed these bright smiles!

My girl, Grace. She’s very shy – and very grateful to be sponsored. She aspires to be a doctor.

Grace’s mother prepared tea for us in her modest home, grateful for the opportunity that MGEF has afforded her daughter to have a bright future.

This was my 4th travel program to East Africa … and it was more extraordinary than anything I’d experienced in past years.

Everyone has high expectations for eye-popping wildlife experiences, and our trip didn’t disappoint. But the connections and interactions with the Kenyan people, as I’ve shared in this post, are trophy memories we’ll treasure forever.

In the next installment of this blog, I’ll recount the story of Kamuti – a former poacher. I’ll share some of my best wildlife pics. And you’ll learn what’s involved in the exhaustive conservation efforts, including land leases, ranger training, education and scholarship programs, water holes and salt licks, employment and volunteer training, among other initiatives. And, I’ll introduce to you Richard Corcoran, a 4th-generation Kenyan who has devoted his life to conservation and support of the tribes of Kenya, and who added immeasurably to the richness of our travel experience.

AND – we’re going to schedule another WOW! Kenya trip in 2020! Add your details to the comments below if you want to receive the advance announcement of this unforgettable adventure!

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